9654a 9654b 9660a This
F7 loco set was made by S Helper Service in 2002. S Helper Service was sold
to Mikes Train House but the molds are now owned by ScaleTrains. The “How To”
build this set was featured in the January 2005 Mainline Modeler. When
I got this set I knew I had to add antennas. Overhead photos of any loco are
very difficult to find especially in 2002. There are no known drawings for
the antenna stanchions spacing. Everyone including me must have winged it and
gotten as close as possible by looking at available side photos. |
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All below photos are from 2003 unless otherwise noted.
When
I got this loco set I also got my first digital camera, a Fuji S602 a few
months earlier. It gave some incredible depth of field shots even when compared
with my Canon 80D DSLR 16 years later. This was likely my first project taken
with the S602. In 2003 space and file size on the camera card was a constant
concern. Space taken up on your computer hard drive, and file size for emailing
on dial up internet all was very different in 2003. I set the camera to small
file size and documented the project progress, emailing it out as I went along.
When I was just about done the detailing I was contacted by Mainline Modeler
magazine to get the project published. Most of my photos to date were 100 KB,
by far not good enough for publishing.
Right after this a friend bought an unpainted set and wanted it detailed
the same way so I had a “redo” of sorts in some documentation. That is why some photos are painted models
and some are not. This also forever ended my practice of setting the file size
to anything less than the maximum camera output. Possibly 100,000 digital
photos later taken on 10 digital cameras I have owned since 2003 have been set
to full JPG file size. You can make the file size and resolution smaller but
you cannot make it bigger.
This is stock out of the box on 5-18-13. Let the fun begin!
PRR Antennas
Most
of the improvements were adding the Trainphone antennas, the defining PRR
detail. This is the main source of how I figured the stanchion spacing. I
compared side builders photos of F3 sized to S Scale to my Overland F3 brass
locos. They were very close and fit on the F7 as well. Good enough. This is of course measured in real inches.
Your scale may vary…..
No
model more than 10 years old including brass models I have seen made the route
of the antenna conduits correctly especially at the rear wall. Both of the
conduits usually just turns inward above the door opening. This is the best photo
– from a F3 I have ever seen. I HOPE the F7 is the same!
This
is Tichy .020 phosphor bronze wire. The stanchions are available from Bills Train Shop. Note the ladder
rests and nose lifting rings as well
Drilling Fixture
A
part of drilling the antenna stanchion holes for my friend’s locos was to go off
on a side project and make a drilling fixture. I do like to make things just to
challenge myself. It is big fun. There was the thought of having a fleet of F
Units, so this fixture would make adding antennas “easy”. That has NOT happened
yet…..
Completed 6-1-03
This
was possibly before I switched to DCC so there are no headlights are on in the
photos. The locos are on a 3 feet long photography track I made with tie plates
and 6 spikes per tie. I am NEVER doing that again! The depth of field shown
here for the S602 is just amazing especially for its time. I had a photography
studio set up back then with a paper roll up backdrop.
I was published!
9-7-19 Photos
For
no known reason I have not run them very much. Maybe like my PRR GP9 I “worked on
them” and was afraid something “might happen”. I eventually added DCC, but not
sound units.
I
got them out of the box just for a goof in September 2019 to find the
headlights did not work. When something does not work or is not “the way I
would do it” I typically gut the loco and start over. That is just what I did,
stripped it down to the motor and pick up wires. New NCE D13NHJ decoders were
installed, still not sound units yet though. Installing sound units would be
very easy with most of the wiring already done. Unplug 1 decoder for the other
and wire up a speaker. I put in all new LEDs thinking I was also lighting the
numberboards but it was the corner markers instead. I might go back and light
the numberboards too.
Updated 9-8-19
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photos and content © Lanes Trains 2005-2019