are 2 cars I have wanted to make for a long time. I have a “Railway Express
Agency” and head end car thing. There is not a lot of room on my layout for
switching so I will switch the REA cars to the REA building. There are also
not many cars that are blue so that adds to the variety.
photos of the C-16 and C-17 cars on the internet proved to be almost
is an Overland B&O M-53 boxcar imported in 1984. When the B&O the
converted M-53 to REA express service they became class C-16. For modeling
purposes the conversion from M-53 to C-16 is rather minor. I just added cut
levers brass draft gear, air, signal and steam lines. The door tracks could
be better but I left them as is.
is the M-53 right out of the box.
Ready For Paint 10-5-20
Note the cut lever brackets. They are the first parts I ever made
in about 1992.
“correct” B&O Blue turned out to be an expensive issue. I bought Scalecoat
which looked to be a bit purple to me. It did however match a B&O F7
very well I just upgraded before this project. I got 4 bottles of Tru Color “Bando
Blue” (B & O Blue) because I was building 3 locos next and wanted them to
match. The Tru Color was a very dark blue. I next got white figuring ½ bottle
mixed into 4 bottles of blue would be good. NO! It was too light then. It took
4 more bottles of Bando Blue to darken it back up. So that is 3 bottles of
Scalecoat then 9 bottles of Tru Color easily totaling over $50.00. I bought my
local train store out of Bando Blue. I was done! Paint them! It might not be a
“perfect” match but good enough. I found what different light sources did to
these cars going from too light to dark blue. I am really not a fan of custom
colors. There will be no chance of touch up in the future.
decal set I planned on using for both cars was a generic passenger set. There
was nothing in the set specifically for decaling these cars. I started decaling
the C-16 first but quickly ran into big problems getting the lettering to fit
between the ribs so I switched to the C-17 and completed it. The C-17 is pretty
close but not perfect. There were a lot of rivets on the body of the C-17 to
use for references making applying the thin striping not a big problem. I
wanted to continue with the same decal set on the C-16 because I really wanted
it to match the C-17 but that was not going to happen. There was no ampersand
(&) in the set so that was the deciding factor. I stripped off the decals I
started on the C-16 with Scotch tape. Luckily I did not have to repaint the car
as I thought might happen. I used a decal set I had Jerry Glow make for me in
2012! That was a set specifically measured for the C-16 and went on very well.
Jerry’s decals were the best! So spacing and layout is very good but the colors
don’t match. Oh well… There is only so much I can do.
is a River Raisin Model troop sleeper converted to BX boxcar. The Troop
Sleeper, Troop kitchen and BX boxcar were imported in 2003. The B&O
purchased 100 WWII surplus troop sleepers from the US Government for the
bargain price of $2880.00 when new boxcars would be over $5000.00. I already
made a slightly less than accurate REA BX boxcar here.
This car will be a bit better.
is the BX boxcar right out of the box. Even though it was primed I stripped it
to make the soldering modifications easier.
brass is obviously the new parts. I removed the original large center stirrup
steps and added smaller stirrups. I moved the hand grab iron from the right
side to the left side of the door. I then filled the 2 holes with .020 brass
wire to look like rivets that should have been there. Note the brass draft
gear. I made that old school before 3D designing and printing 25 years ago. It
might not be 100% accurate for this car but is better than the stock Kadee
plastic draft gear. The original door was really a shallow recessed channel. I
just sheared 2 pieces of brass sheet and laminated on top of the original door.
I thought that was a novel solution. I am keeping the Allied trucks even though
the real trucks were problematic at high speeds. I think they are different
looking. I added cut levers, new air, and signal and steam lines. After paint I
realized the center door seam of the 2 sheets I cut was actually not very
noticeable. If I filed a slight bevel on
that edge it would have made a gap. 1 side is more pronounced than the other so
that is what is running facing me!
Ready For Paint 10-5-20
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